Friday 24 April 2015

10 things I didn't know about Zambians…

Being immersed in a different culture is so interesting. It's fascinating to observe the way that people live here, and think about why they do what they do. Some things that I’ve noticed seem logical, some bizarre or random, and others just completely different to what we’re used to at home. Here are ten things I've found out about life in Zambians that I didn't know before I arrived:

1) A lot of women wear wigs! You can meet a lady one day who then looks very different the next time you see her. I would have thought it would be rather hot wearing a wig in the heat but it seems to be a pretty popular thing to do. Every so often a child at school will turn up with completely different hair from one day to the next - going from almost bald to long braids, or cornrows to crazy afro!

Hair straighteners heated on the brazier

2) Nshima is the staple food here. It seems that all Zambians love it and some will eat it for every meal. Nshima (pronounced ‘sheema’) is a kind of maize and looks like something in between rice and mashed potato. It doesn't actually have a lot of flavour! I think every African country has its own version, since it is very much like Ugali which I have previously eaten in Kenya.

When visiting orphans and guardians in the village, we might ask them when they last ate. I've discovered that if someone says they haven't eaten that day, they may have actually had rice or something else but what they actually mean is they haven't eaten nshima.

Dad trying nshima

3) Believe it or not, a prime location for wedding photos here is a roundabout! I have seen several wedding parties gathering on the local roundabout leading into town for their photos. This apparently started several years ago because there were very few pretty areas in Ndola and the roundabout at that time was new.

Wedding photographs on the roundabout (taken whilst driving past!)

4) It is OK to ask a Zambian pretty much any question, except whether they are HIV positive. It is acceptable to ask someone how much they earn or how they sustained an injury or deformity, but unfortunately there is still a lot of shame concerning HIV and so this question is avoided.

5) It's not awkward to have conversations about God or spiritual things. Quite a lot of Zambians go to church on Sundays. After a service, everyone forms a very long line so that they can greet and shake hands with every single other person that is there!

Part of the long line shaking hands!

6) The people here are very patient, until they get in their cars! Perhaps the heat promotes patience and a slow approach to life. However once behind the wheel, most drivers appear anything but patient as they overtake, dart about the road and barge in front!

7) Trucks that carry beer stop for people at the roadside to buy from. Here we often see people waiting whilst surrounded by lots of containers. They’re waiting to buy beer from a truck which they can go and sell in their village.

8) Women seem to have it quite tough here. They have to work hard but are generally not respected as much as the men. It is impressive how many things the local women can carry on their heads! I’ve been told that one of the things a Zambian wife is expected to do is shave all of her husband’s hair once a month!

Masala market

9) Knees and thighs are considered raunchy parts of the body here. This means that women have to be careful to keep them covered up. I live in leggings and cropped trousers here, so my best tan is on my feet! (although they could be just permanently dirty!?).

Covering knees is becoming less important in town and the urban areas of the country, but it is still observed in Kaniki and the more rural areas. It does not seem as necessary to totally cover the top part of the body though – so we do see the occasional flash of a boob!


Women wearing African chitenge material

10) People live life earlier here. The day starts and finishes earlier compared to the UK. Some children arrive at school earlier than us, around 6:30am on some days! I often get woken up at 4.30am when the Bible College students have a prayer meeting. Not surprisingly, quite a few of them have regular naps.

Most of the workers at the college start at 7am and finish at 4pm. The sun sets predictably at 6.30pm every day. I guess many people in the villages wouldn’t have much of an evening because they only have candles to help them see once it is dark.

I am learning though that culture is more than just the way people dress and the language that they speak. It is a completely different way of thinking. I didn't realise how British I was until now!



Thursday 16 April 2015

Adrenaline Junkies in Livingstone

I spent last week experiencing the sights and sounds of Livingstone. Lying 10km to the north of the Zambezi River, Livingstone is best known for the famous waterfall the Victoria Falls.

The Mighty Victoria Falls

My friend Ang from Winchester is currently out here visiting me, and so after spending the Easter weekend together in Ndola, we decided to enjoy some holiday time away. I’d saved up a bit of money before I came out here to put towards a couple of trips/holidays during my time here in Zambia, so that I can experience some places and of course enjoy the time out. I’m really enjoying being here but living and working within the same compound can be quite intense at times and so it’s nice to occasionally have a few days away from things.

Livingstone was a bit smaller than I had expected but it is certainly well set up for tourists and offers lots of opportunity to see the views and go on a variety of excursions. I absolutely love holidays, relaxing and spending time with friends and family. I’ve also come to realise that I'm actually a bit of an adrenaline junkie too (or a ‘complete nutter’ as my sister Rach puts it!).

We arrived in Livingstone on Monday afternoon and we were keen to visit the Victoria Falls straight away. Ignoring advice about hiring ponchos, we wandered straight towards the falls. The spray was so huge that we got drenched instantly! Soaked to the skin and far too wet to turn back for ponchos, we carried on enjoying the views. Victoria Falls is absolutely stunning. I can certainly see why it is one of the Seven Wonders of the World.


Drenched from the spray

On Tuesday we went to Angel's Pool which is situated right at the top of the falls. There is no way people would be allowed anywhere like this in England! We had a guide leading us as we scrambled across slippery rocks, through muddy grass and shallow water, until we were only a metre or two away from the edge of the falls! The view was phenomenal and we enjoyed a delicious breakfast overlooking the spectacular surroundings. 


Close to the edge!

Going for a swim...!?

So what next? Well, I went on to do a bungee jump over the Zambezi River! This was a first for me as I’ve never bungee jumped before. I decided that this would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience (although I actually wouldn’t rule out doing another one…just don’t tell my Mum!). Despite bouncing up and down and spinning around whilst screaming, I really did enjoy the experience in such a beautiful location.


The Zambezi River

Getting ready to bungee!



On Wednesday, we walked with lions!  Ang and I visited an animal centre that rescues lions, cheetahs, lynxes and elephants, looking after them until they can be released into game reserves. The two 27 month lions that we met (called Dynah and Terry!) were surprisingly calm. Apparently this was because they had been fed the day before and only eat every three days! I’m not sure what our experience would have been if we had met them the following day...





After all this excitement we decided to stop and relax for the afternoon at the very grand Royal Livingstone Hotel. It has zebra and impala roaming around the grounds and we enjoyed a yummy High Tea there (this meant cakes galore for me!).





Thursday meant an early start as we headed to Chobe, in Botswana. There we spent the day on safari, on a river cruise and a game drive. I have never seen so many wild animals - elephants, giraffes and hippos everywhere.







After debating how much energy and money we had left, we decided to take the opportunity and spend Friday, our last full day in Livingstone, white water rafting on the Zambezi River. I am so glad we did! I think I spent the whole day with a big smile on my face. Rafting certainly had its challenging moments but was a lot of fun. Even the climb down to the river was a challenge in itself…although not quite as worrying as having to sign a waiver before travelling in the cable car back up afterwards! We rafted through quite high waters which are more dangerous at the moment than at other times of year (and also meant not all the rapids were open). Fortunately the guides who took us out on the river were very skilled and there were also some extra staff travelling alongside in canoes, keeping a close eye on everyone.

Well, I managed to fall out of the boat on one of the first rapids! At least it was easy to pull me back in as the boat was still upright. This wasn’t quite the case when the boat flipped, which ended up happening to us twice! The first time I ended up under the boat but managed to escape and help turn the boat back over. The second time, I struggled to hold on to the safety line and ended up drifting down the river. It was exciting but also scary when I came to a cluster of whirlpools and could feel the current pulling me. Another boat rescued me. All in a day's fun!


Oops, I fell out!

Going...

going...

...gone!!

We survived!

It was an amazing week; full of excitement and new experiences. Thank you Ang for embracing the fun and joining me in my crazy escapades! I hope that you all had a lovely Easter too.




Sunday 5 April 2015

A Rainy Day

As we enter the month of April, the rainy season seems to be coming to an end. However, I've heard that the wet season here often concludes with a crescendo - a crazy amount of rain or a violent storm. 

Unfortunately for many Zambians, the rain this year has not been as good as usual, mainly because it arrived late in the year. The government were also late in providing fertiliser, so many people here are struggling to grow maize, which is the staple food. It's expected that there will be a food shortage later on in the year.

Maize on the plot next to school

I find it quite funny how much Zambians hate the rain. We are definitely more used to it in England! Here, we often see what looks like hundreds of people (perhaps a slight exaggeration) crammed under a shelter, waiting for ages. They are just not keen on going out in the rain, whether it's pouring down or just spitting. However, I suppose it is different because most people here in Kaniki don't have raincoats or umbrellas so they get very wet, with little way to warm up or dry off.

We've also noticed that some children here just don't come to school when it rains. We definitely could not get away with that at home! In their defence, a few of them do walk quite a long way to school, on a route where the dirt tracks or paths are not good, or flood.

Kaniki Extension in the rain

Today was one of just a few days since I've been here, which started with an overcast sky and rained pretty much all morning. We only had 8 children turn up in Grade 1 today! All of my class in Grade 2 arrived minus one of the children and the Zambian teacher that works with us. 

This morning several of the children arrived soaked, wearing only a summer dress or shorts and t-shirt. We found what we could to give them something to change into. Some of the girls in my class spent the day wearing a chitenge (African fabric), my cardigan or my waterproof! They seemed to enjoy the novelty of this.








Keeping warm with porridge, chitenges and my clothes!

So how do you brighten a rainy day in Africa?! We enjoyed singing and even a spot of dancing...

Mumba: "Miss Cross, we want to dance!"